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Knitting Size Charts

Standard body measurements for every knitting project. Pick a category and unit to see the chart.

These are body measurements, not finished garment measurements. Add ease for the fit you want.

Women XS–XL

Measurement XSSMLXL
Chest 71–76 cm 28–30" 81–86 cm 32–34" 91.5–96.5 cm 36–38" 101.5–106.5 cm 40–42" 111.5–117 cm 44–46"
Back Waist Length 42 cm 16.5" 43 cm 17" 43.5 cm 17.25" 44.5 cm 17.5" 45 cm 17.75"
Cross Back 35.5–37 cm 14–14.5" 37–38 cm 14.5–15" 39.5–40.5 cm 15.5–16" 42–43 cm 16.5–17" 44.5 cm 17.5"
Arm Length to Underarm 42 cm 16.5" 43 cm 17" 43 cm 17" 44.5 cm 17.5" 44.5 cm 17.5"
Upper Arm 25 cm 9.75" 26 cm 10.25" 28 cm 11" 30.5 cm 12" 34.5 cm 13.5"
Armhole Depth 15.5–16.5 cm 6–6.5" 16.5–17.5 cm 6.5–7" 17.5–19 cm 7–7.5" 19–20.5 cm 7.5–8" 20.5–21.5 cm 8–8.5"
Waist 58.5–61 cm 23–24" 63.5–67.5 cm 25–26.5" 71–76 cm 28–30" 81.5–86.5 cm 32–34" 91.5–96.5 cm 36–38"
Hips 83.5–86 cm 33–34" 89–91.5 cm 35–36" 96.5–101.5 cm 38–40" 106.5–111.5 cm 42–44" 116.5–122 cm 46–48"
Center Back Neck-to-Wrist 66–68.5 cm 26–26.5" 68.5–70 cm 27–27.5" 71–72.5 cm 28–28.5" 73.5–75 cm 29–29.5" 73.5–75 cm 29–29.5"

Women 2X–5X

Measurement 2X3X4X5X
Chest 122–127 cm 48–50" 132–137 cm 52–54" 142–147 cm 56–58" 152–158 cm 60–62"
Back Waist Length 45.5 cm 18" 45.5 cm 18" 47 cm 18.5" 47 cm 18.5"
Cross Back 45.5 cm 18" 45.5 cm 18" 47 cm 18.5" 47 cm 18.5"
Arm Length to Underarm 45.5 cm 18" 45.5 cm 18" 47 cm 18.5" 47 cm 18.5"
Upper Arm 39.5 cm 15.5" 43 cm 17" 47 cm 18.5" 49.5 cm 18.5"
Armhole Depth 21.5–23 cm 8.5–9" 23–24 cm 9–9.5" 24–25.5 cm 9.5–10" 25.5–26.5 cm 10–10.5"
Waist 101.5–106.5 cm 40–42" 111.5–114 cm 44–45" 116.5–119 cm 46–47" 124–127 cm 49–50"
Hips 132–134.5 cm 52–53" 137–139.5 cm 54–55" 142–144.5 cm 56–57" 155–157 cm 61–62"
Center Back Neck-to-Wrist 76.5–77.5 cm 30–30.5" 77.5–79 cm 30.5–31" 80–81.5 cm 31.5–32" 80–81.5 cm 31.5–32"

How to take body measurements

The measurements in these charts correspond to specific points on the body. Getting an accurate reading requires measuring in the right place.

Chest / Bust: Measure around the fullest part of the chest, keeping the tape level and snug but not tight. For women, this is at the fullest point of the bust. This is the primary measurement used to determine garment size.

Waist: Measure at the natural waistline, the narrowest point of the torso, usually just above the navel. Bending to one side helps locate it if you're unsure.

Hips: Measure around the fullest part of the hips, usually 18–23 cm (7–9 inches) below the waist. Keep the tape level.

Cross Back (shoulder to shoulder): Measure straight across the back from the tip of one shoulder to the other. This determines the shoulder width of a garment.

Back Waist Length: Measure from the prominent bone at the back of the neck straight down to the natural waist. This determines how long the torso section of a garment needs to be.

Arm Length to Underarm: Measure from the wrist bone to the underarm. This is your sleeve length guide.

Upper Arm: Measure the circumference at the fullest part of the upper arm, with the arm relaxed at the side.

Armhole Depth: Measure from the top of the shoulder straight down to the underarm. This determines how deep the armhole shaping needs to be.

Center Back Neck-to-Wrist: Measure from the center back of the neck, across the shoulder and down the arm to the wrist bone. This combined measurement is used for raglan and yoke constructions where the body and sleeve are worked together.

Body measurements vs finished garment measurements

This is the most common source of sizing confusion in knitting. These charts show body measurements, the actual dimensions of the person. A finished garment is always larger because it includes ease.

Negative ease (–2.5 to –5 cm): The garment is smaller than the body. Used for hats, socks, and very fitted ribbed garments that need to grip.

Zero ease: The garment matches body measurements exactly. Very rare in knitting. The result is skin-tight.

Positive ease (5–10 cm): The garment is slightly larger than the body. This is standard fit for most sweaters, cardigans, and tops.

Oversized ease (10–20+ cm): The garment is noticeably larger than the body. Slouchy sweaters, cocoon cardigans, and relaxed-fit garments.

When a pattern says "to fit chest 91.5 cm" and gives a finished bust measurement of 101.5 cm, the 10 cm difference is the ease. Your job is to choose the size where the "to fit" measurement matches your body, not the finished measurement.

Once you know your target size, the Yarn Estimator can sanity-check yardage, and the sweater yardage guide walks through sizing calculations in more depth.

Choosing between sizes

If your chest measurement falls between two sizes, the right choice depends on the garment's intended fit. For a close-fitting garment, go with the smaller size. For a relaxed or oversized fit, go with the larger size.

Also compare other measurements, especially hips for longer garments and upper arm for fitted sleeves. If your chest says M but your hips say L, check the pattern's schematic to see whether the hip difference matters for the garment's length and silhouette.

Whichever size you pick, the gauge swatch decides whether the finished piece actually matches the pattern's numbers. The how to measure gauge guide covers the swatching process in full.

Frequently asked questions

Are these measurements the same across all knitting patterns?

Most major publishers and independent designers follow Craft Yarn Council standards, but there's no universal enforcement. Some designers use their own sizing, particularly those focused on size-inclusive design with more granular options. Always check the specific pattern's size chart if one is provided.

How do I choose a size if the pattern uses numbered sizes instead of XS/S/M/L?

Compare the chest measurement listed for each numbered size with the charts above. The chest measurement is what matters. Ignore the label.

Should I measure over clothing or on bare skin?

Over lightweight clothing: a fitted t-shirt or thin layer. A bulky sweater adds inches that don't reflect your body. Bare skin can read slightly smaller than the garment actually needs to accommodate.

What if my measurements don't fit neatly into one size?

Normal. Most people aren't a single size across all measurements. Prioritize the measurement most important for the garment: chest for a sweater, hips for a skirt, head circumference for a hat. Many patterns include instructions for lengthening or shortening specific sections.

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