The old skein runs out. The new one needs to start. The transition has to be invisible in the finished fabric and secure enough not to unravel.
The four main methods are the overlap join (simplest, two tails to weave in), Russian join (no tails, slightly thicker), spit splice (invisible but only for feltable wool), and magic knot (fast but leaves a knot). The best choice depends on the yarn’s fiber content and how much you care about weaving in ends.
Method 1: the overlap join
Simplest. Start knitting with the new yarn, leaving 6-inch tails on both old and new. Knit the first few stitches with the new yarn, holding the old tail alongside. Drop the old tail after a few stitches. Weave in both ends later.
Works with any yarn, needs no prep, and you can do it mid-row or at the edge. The downside: two tails to weave in, and the overlap stitches can look slightly thicker until the ends are woven in and the fabric is blocked. This is the method most knitters learn first, and it’s the right choice whenever weaving in ends doesn’t bother you.
Some knitters prefer to join at row beginnings rather than mid-row. The tails end up at the edge where they’re easier to hide in a seam. For flat pieces that get seamed, this is cleanest. For knitting in the round, there’s no edge, so mid-round joining is unavoidable.
Method 2: the Russian join
No ends to weave in. The old and new tails are threaded back through themselves with a tapestry needle, creating two interlocking loops.
Thread the old yarn’s tail onto a tapestry needle. Pierce back through the old yarn’s plies for about 2 inches, creating a loop at the end. Do the same with the new yarn. Link the two loops together like chain links before pulling tight. Trim the tails close.
Very secure because the join is integrated into the yarn itself. The joined section is slightly thicker (two layers for about 2 inches on each side), which shows in very thin yarn. Doesn’t work with singles or anything too splitty to pierce.
Best for knitters who genuinely dislike weaving in ends and are working with plied yarn. From DK weight and heavier, the thickness increase disappears in the finished fabric.
Method 3: the spit splice (felt join)
Only works with non-superwash wool and other feltable animal fibers.
Overlap the ends by about 3 inches. Wet them (the name comes from the traditional method, but water works fine). Roll the overlap vigorously between your palms. Friction plus moisture felts the fibers together, creating a permanent bond with no bulk and no ends.
The result is genuinely invisible: no thickness change, nothing to weave in, and the bond is permanent. The limitation is obvious. It only works with feltable yarn. Cotton, acrylic, superwash wool, silk, linen won’t felt. If the bond isn’t strong enough (not enough friction or moisture), it pulls apart.
Many wool knitters’ favorite method. If your yarn felts, worth learning.
Method 4: the magic knot
Overlap old and new yarn. Tie the old around the new with a simple knot, then tie the new around the old with another. Slide both knots toward each other until they meet and lock. Trim tails close.
Fast, secure, works with any yarn, no ends to weave in. But there’s a knot in the fabric. Even a tight magic knot creates a small hard point that can be felt in thin fabric and may work to the surface over time. In slippery yarns (silk, bamboo), the knots can slip undone. Many knitters consider knots in knitting unacceptable, full stop.
Best for thick fabrics where a knot disappears (bulky blankets, felted items). Not for garments or delicate work.
Choosing the right method
For most situations, the overlap join with woven-in ends is safest and most universal. Works with every yarn, clean result after finishing, no special technique needed.
For non-superwash wool, the spit splice gives the cleanest result. Takes practice to get the pressure and moisture right, but once it clicks, it’s the fastest and most invisible join.
The Russian join suits knitters who genuinely dislike ends, working with plied yarn from DK and heavier.
Timing the join
If you can plan ahead, you have options. When you’re getting close to the end of a skein, measure the remaining yarn against the width of your work. Enough for about 4 more rows? You have room. Barely enough for one? Join at the beginning of the next row so the tails land at the edge.
For stockinette in the round, stagger your joins so they don’t all fall at the same point. Moving the join a few stitches each time prevents a visible column of slightly different texture.
Notes on joining
A simple knot and continuing is technically possible but generally poor practice. The knot creates a hard lump, can work loose, and shows on inspection.
For tails, leave at least 6 inches. Less than that and threading a tapestry needle gets difficult. Some knitters leave 8–10 inches for security.
Where you join depends on the project. Seamed garments: join at the edge, tails hide in the seam. Knitting in the round: mid-round joins are unavoidable. Avoid the center front of a sweater if you can.
If the new yarn is a slightly different shade (different dye lot), alternate skeins for a few rows before switching completely. Two rows old, two rows new, repeat for 6–8 rows. This blends the transition instead of creating a sharp line.